Lodz a City Transformed from Drab to Fab since WW II

Lodz knows the transformative power of a lick of paint and a little imagination. A textile manufacturing hub in the 19th century, the Polish city fell into a period of post-WW2 decline known as “Grey Lodz”.

But rather than shuffling off in a moth-eaten shawl, it has spent the past decade dusting itself off and filling in the cracks. Buildings once dressed drably in flaky paint and crumbling plaster are now adorned with bold murals. Mills and factories have been reinvented as lively neighborhoods with apartments, restaurants, shopping and nightlife.

So its nickname, “Polish Manchester”, makes perfect sense – unlike its actual name. Pronounced “woodge”, Lodz translates as “boat” (something of a misnomer for a landlocked, urban sprawl in the centre of Poland). Once you’ve wrapped your brain – and your tongue – around that, here’s what to do in this charming city.

What I did in Lodz was visit Grazyna Esch the wife of a high school friend who just happened to be visiting her mother and daughter in the town where she grew up.

Grazyna took us on a stroll down Piotrkowska.  At 4.2km, Piotrkowska is the longest commercial street in Poland and probably the most eclectic. All along the street  you’ll find a hotchpotch of architectural styles from the neo-baroque to art nouveau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others restored to their former glory.  The street is the commercial and social hub of the city and there’s beer gardens, restaurants, and stores for everyone’s taste.  Then there’s “Holly-Lodz”, the city’s take on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame (it makes more sense if you remember how to correctly pronounce Lodz). Pavement stars honor Roman Polanski, a graduate of the city’s film school, and pianist Arthur Rubinstein.